Ask the Pros Part 2: A Guide to Springtime Home Repair

As you begin to tackle those springtime chores around the house, here are some tips from the experts in Facilities Management.

Lawncare, mowing

One nice thing about winter is you don't have to mow the yard. But it's spring, and lawn care cannot be avoided, unless you hire a lawn service.

For those of us who don't, Mark McKee, a university grounds manager, has plenty of advice. Maybe we can even fool passersby into thinking that we've hired the pros.

First off, McKee suggests, when mowing, make sure to practice good safety habits. Keep children well away from the area. Remove all debris before starting and take note of any hazards such as mounted light fixtures. If mowing on steep slopes, follow a horizontal path. And wear clothing that offers protection, including sturdy shoes, safety glasses and ear defenders.

Mowing is key to the lawn's health and appearance, McKee says. It's crucial to keep your mower blade sharp by taking it to the mower shop three or four times each season. "If it's not sharp, it has a tendency to tear the blade, and the tears will have a tendency to brown out. It makes a nicer cut and keeps the ends greener."

Also, try not to wait too long in between cuttings. At UC, the groundskeepers mow to a height of about 3 to 3.5 inches. You don't want to remove any more than about one-third of the grass length at each mowing. "This will allow you to leave the clippings, which will decompose quickly and add nutrients." It saves the trouble of raking. If you wait to cut when the grass is too long, clippings will create thatch. Don't forget to mow in different directions each time to ensure a more even cut and avoid rutting patterns.

McKee also notes that fertilizer is important. "A minimum of four applications should be made, in early spring, early summer, late summer and fall. Either liquid or granular nutrients can be used, but McKee prefers granular. "It's the easiest to apply. It also feeds the natural way, through the root system."

Depending on whether your soil is light and fine or heavy clay, aeration may be needed occasionally. Aeration units can be rented to pull plugs of dirt from the lawn. When the soil becomes too compacted and hard, the grass roots cannot spread. Creating holes helps. If your lawn is not compacted, you really don't need to bother, he adds.

To water your lawn, McKee suggests that the best time is in the morning. Late afternoon or evening watering may promote the development of diseases, he says. Water two or three times a week with approximately 1 or 2 inches of water, depending on rainfall. Also make sure you allow enough time for a deep and thorough soaking. It's a good idea to move the sprinkler occasionally during the watering to prevent puddling or runoff.

Driveways

The same hard winter that brings potholes in the street can lead to concrete cracks and crevices in your own yard.

The best way to deal with this issue is prevention, says Tom Sturwold, mason and concrete worker in the Department of Grounds, Moving and Transportation. Every five years or so, you need to seal your concrete driveway, sidewalks and steps to help them last longer.

This means renting a power washer first, to spray the concrete down and clean it thoroughly. Then when it's completely dry, spray a concrete sealant over it. It will take a couple of gallons to do a 10-by-30 foot driveway.

"It's like when your grandma used to put plastic covers over her furniture or like waxing your car. It repels water off. It's an important step, especially if it's new concrete," says Sturwold, who has worked at UC since 1977.

If there are holes you'd like to patch, Sturwold recommends chiseling them out completely, brushing them clean, hosing them down and letting them dry thoroughly before filling with concrete. There is a nifty trick to make the patches look less noticeable. Buy a rubber or sponge float at the hardware store. When the patch is about 80 percent dry, take the sponge float and smooth the top of the patch with a little pressure. Level it to the same depth as the existing concrete. "Make sure you put a little water on the sponge and rub it in circular motions to blend the surface into the existing concrete. On a scale of one to 10, use about a five in pressure while rubbing," he says. When you're finished, don't forget Sturwold's first tip: Seal it.

If the driveway is so bad you want to replace it, Sturwold says the average price is about $6 a square foot, including removal of the old concrete, forming, grading, putting in new concrete to a 5-inch thickness with steel reinforcement and, once again, don't forget - the sealant.

Part 1: Mulching and Painting