The Comp

Jenni Waldrop : Campus Recreation Center Climbing Wall Specialist

April 22, 2008

It’s Saturday morning and rather than rolling over in disgust at the sight of an alarm clock, several students across campus are migrating to a place where climbing has replaced cell phones as the opiate of the masses and food comes in the form of energy drinks.

A glance into UC’s Campus Recreation center would give you a birds’ eye view into the lives of those at the University’s first ever bouldering competition.

11 a.m.

Mass chaos and arrival. A Frisbee saunters back and forth. Registration forms are being filled out to the tune of “I would rather be climbing than sleeping in.” There are no clichéd circles. Climbing gear and the climbers attached to them are spread evenly throughout the room. No one pauses before they speak. The room is roaring with speech and laughter.

11:54 a.m.

A voice echoes from above the bouldering wall. The crowd sits itself quietly like second graders listening to a librarian. Not a phone interrupts:

“I want to start by apologizing for having to postpone…” Jacob begins, “I’m too tired to remember who helped [with the competition]…you know who you are…thanks.” Those who did help haven’t slept for two days; they are recognizable by their red eyes.

Further explanation of the rules follow, “Your top five scores will determine placement. If you flash a problem you get the first number on the white tape.” Each problem begins with a thick strip of white tape. The tape has three numbers. Completing a problem on the first try earns you this first number, second try the second number, and three or more tries merits the third number.

Each problem is placed in a category. Those rated V0-V2 are classified as beginner, and worth 0-99 points. Intermediate problems are rated V3-V5, and worth 100-99 points. Finally, advanced problems are V6 and above, and will warrant 100+ points for competitors.

The opening speech comes to a close by thanking sponsors, the list of which is almost as long as the rules themselves. Sponsors include: Nicros, Black Diamond, Rock Shoes.com, Zen Lizard, RockQuest, and So Ill.

12:02 p.m.

The competition begins with a “You got two hours. Go for it.” Flash photography twinkles across the floor in a sudden burst. Practice climbs, chalk clouds, and the occasional thud follow. Feet twist around holds while yellow forms are filled with scores. The commotion has brought on outside curiosity; one spectator watches from the doorway and several more have their faces pressed against the window.

                      

Of all the sports in the public eye line, one of the most distinctive characteristics of a climbing competition is the lack of competitive arrogance. You are not bitter when you just fell off the third move of a route someone else just flashed. You follow each move with your eyes and read the route as they go. You cheer them on. You congratulate them for beating your score.

This is a trusting atmosphere—to complete a problem, competitors get signatures from two other climbers or one staff member. Completion of a problem involves a competitor beginning ‘static’ (no movement) from the start, and the finish must be controlled with both hands matched.

The Setters

Without this small group of guys, the competition wouldn’t be possible. They are the setters, and they have been up all night.  The three present are different degrees of tired—drooping, but actively involved, they observe from the sidelines—dishing out silent advice with their eyes.

Andrew is so tired, he can barely hold up his own shoulders. He answers questions with some thought but not too much—too much might just knock him over.

J: Have you slept?

A: No

A: Plain black. Because every move is cool.
[When encouraged to elaborate, he adds:] It’s extremely technical and strength based. It encompasses all the important aspects of climbing. I’d say it’s a V5.

J: Which of your routes is least likely to be flashed by anyone? Rate it.

A: Black or green, both are V5’s.

J: Can you climb all your routes?

A: [He contemplates with a brief pause that says he’s definitely tried everything. He comes back with a firm and calculated:] Yes.

J: Have you participated in other competitions? How/when/where? Did you place?

A: Yes; I’ve competed in UC’s top roping competition, and placed second. I also did three competitions at Climb Time but I didn’t place.

Eli seems to be more excited than tired—maybe he spent the morning downing caffeine. He answers questions with the vigor of someone who just accomplished something on the first try.

J: Have you slept?

E: No

J: On a scale of one to dead, how tired are you?

E: Decrepit

E: We were almost arrested for this competition. I went 13 hours with no bathroom break, so I go downstairs after the Rec Center is closed, and the bathroom alarm goes off. The cops showed up and we just told them “ooppsie daisy.” 

J: What’s your favorite thing you set and why? What would you rate it?

E: The “989” route. [He points to a route adorned with bumper stickers that read ‘989’]. It’s a V8. It’s a good mix of technical moves and big throws.

J: Which of your routes is least likely to be flashed by anyone? Rate it.

E: Also the 989 route.

J: Can you climb all your routes?

E: [He answers quickly:] Nope. [Then there is a quick pause as he relocates the route:] 989 is out of my league.

J: Have you participated in other competitions? How/when/where? Did you place?

E: Yes. I’ve done two of the ‘Friday Night Crushes’ at Climb Time, but I didn’t bother to turn in my score card. I just entered to climb.

1:16 p.m.

A 45 minute warning is yelled from somewhere within the noise. Chalk clouds rise up and disintegrate into the background. Chalk smears across noses and under eyes.

Jacob talks while watching competitors. He only takes interest in other climber’s progress and their interpretations of his routes. He looks up once or twice with an ‘are-you-serious’ look if a question is particularly unusual.

J: Have you slept?

Jacob: No

J: On a scale of one to dead, how tired are you?

Jacob: [Is taken aback by question. Contemplates out loud and settles on:] Confused.

J: Any regrets?

Jacob: I’m really upset that I’m missing ‘Church’—but it’s worth it.

J: What’s your favorite thing you set and why? What would you rate it?

Jacob: The silver route. It’s V4-tabulous. [Makes sure ‘tabulous’ was written down and continues:] The first move is an under cling two-finger pocket, and that’s pretty sweet. Then you move up to a gnarly sloper, and the last move is really burly.

J: Which of your routes is least likely to be flashed by anyone? Rate it.

Jacob: The spectacular bright pink pocket dyno. It’s a V-fun because I’m not sure what it really is, V4-ish.

J: Can you climb all your routes?

Jacob: [Hesitates and answers while looking around:] Yes…I believe. There’s one or two that I can work but don’t get every time.

J: Have you participated in other competitions? How/when/where? Did you place?

Jacob: Yes. One in West Virginia at the New River Rendezvous, which was my first comp and my first outdoor climbing experience. I didn’t place but I loved it a lot. I’ve also done the Crush at Climb Time.

1:51 p.m.

There is a ten minute warning. No one managed to bleed until 1:57 p.m. Tabulation begins: cell phone calculators come out of pockets everywhere. Competitors organize their top five scores and fill out the attached comment cards. Registration forms covered in chalky fingerprints are handed over.  

Bouldering Competition Winners
Men's Advanced First Place	Andy Ward
Men's Advanced Second Place	Matt Cheeks
Men's Intermediate First Place	Caleb Patterson
Men's Intermediate Second Place	Ryan Roy
Men's Beginner First Place	Jesse Thomas
Men's Beginner Second Place	Joe Dininger
Women's First Place	Stephanie Gorby

Two minutes into his post-win interview, Andy Ward ironically discloses that he’s “scared of heights,” although he’s hardly alone. This sentiment is regularly revealed when a boulderer tries to top rope…and this fear clearly doesn’t apply on the bouldering wall—which is perched at a lowly 10 feet at its highest point.

Upon being interviewed, it is revealed that three out of seven competition winners started bouldering at UC’s wall. Coincidence? 

Maybe you should drop in and find out.

See more from Jenni Waldrop